Christmas in the Czech Republic

Seeing The Nutcracker; photo credit Alexa Berry

Merry Christmas everyone! While I am currently celebrating the holidays back in the States, I was able to see and experience some Czech Christmas traditions! One tradition that I sadly missed out on (because I was in Italy) was the celebration of St. Nicholas Day. On this holiday, there are many people dressed up as Angels, Devils, and St. Nicholas walking around the city. These characters come up to kids and ask them to sing a song, and if they do, they are typically rewarded with candy. You can read more about the holiday here.

The Nutcracker at Národní Divaldo

Throughout the semester, our program offered free tickets to go see different cultural events. December’s cultural event was The Nutcracker! The show took place at the beautiful National Theatre (Národní Divaldo). However, this was not a traditional production of The Nutcracker, but rather a new combination between The Nutcracker and A Christmas Carol. Yes, there was a Scrooge character dancing around the stage. None of us knew the production would follow this new plotline, so we were all confused, and did not fully believe it was a true production of The Nutcracker until we looked online afterwards. I am glad I was able to get the chance to go and see another performance in the National Theater, but I wish it had just been the traditional Nutcracker instead of the new experimental theatre.

Gingerbread at a Christmas Market stall

Even before leaving for Prague, I had been looking forward to going to the Christmas markets. Prague has multiple Christmas markets throughout the city, and I visited all of the major ones. The products at these markets range from souvenir stands, to soaps and lotions, toys, and handmade goods, along with food. While most of the markets were similar, it was nice to be able to walk around the different markets and do my Christmas shopping in Prague instead of a Walmart or Target. All of the traditional Czech street food can be found at these markets, including sausage, fried potatoes, and trdelnik, which is a delicious almond and cinnamon pastry that comes in a spiral.

Christmas Market at Old Town Square;
photo credit Nikki Johl

What comes to mind when you think of traditional Christmas food? Probably not carp and potato salad, right? Well, those are the two main foods typically associated with Christmas here in the Czech Republic! Our program had a Christmas dinner for us, where in addition to carp and potato salad, they also provided us with traditional Czech Christmas cookies (which typically includes lots and lots of gingerbread). Overall, while there were some Christmas decorations throughout the city, it still did not really feel like “true” Christmas, mostly because I was not at home (and partially because it was 50 degrees, too warm for Christmas!).

Ciao, Bella!

My final weekend of traveling this semester was spent in Italy. The weekend was split between Milan and Venice. We flew in and out of Milan, and spent two of the three nights there, but Venice was the highlight of the trip. It was late afternoon on Thursday by the time we checked into our hostel in Milan. We headed into the city center and went to one of the main squares. We went inside the huge Duomo church and just walked around the downtown area. We did not do much the first evening because we were planning on waking up early to take a train into Venice the following day.

Canals of Venice

We had booked a night in Venice in advance, but had not yet bought train tickets. The staff at our hostel said to not bother buying in advance, and to just buy tickets from the train station the day of our journey. We had checked the time tables once we got into Milan, but had not realized exactly how expensive the tickets would be ($46 each way, which really isn’t too bad, but once you factor in the cost of the plane ticket and transport to and from the airport, we realized just how much would be spent on transportation that weekend). We did make a morning train, which was good planning because the duration of the ride is just over two and a half hours. The place we were staying in Venice was quite close to the train station, so we easily found our way. The apartment we were staying at in Venice was amazing! It was huge and located right next to a canal. After dropping off our bags, we walked around and headed towards the Rialto Bridge and Piazza San Marco.

Partially flooded square; photo credit Alexa Berry

We did not buy a public transportation pass in Venice because it is very expensive, and you can easily walk everywhere. We made it to the main square in about half hour, and that was with us just wandering around and following the signs that are posted on every street corner. Once we got to Piazza San Marco, we went inside Saint Mark’s Basilica. This is one of my favorite churches I have ever been to, partially because the stones in the floor are laid out in a fantastic geometric pattern! Unfortunately there was scaffolding up on the outside due to restoration, but you could still tell how beautiful the church is from the outside. We just wandered around the piazza and down random side streets, and we never did get lost (yet another time GoogleMaps has come in handy).

Seafood appetizer platter; photo credit Alexa Berry

We went back to the apartment for a little rest and to figure out where we should eat for dinner. We looked online and found a traditional place called Paradiso Perduto. We went in and luckily got the last table available. The waitress was incredibly nice and helped us order, giving us her recommendations and telling us how large the dishes were. We ended up getting a huge seafood platter as an appetizer; it was maybe the best seafood I have ever had! They were making handmade pasta, so of course we had to try some. We shared a plate of squid pasta, and a plate of “cheese and pepper” pasta, which of course was just mac & cheese. The next day we once again wandered around the island, gradually making our way towards the college square, Campo San Margerita. This was the area where I had stayed in Venice four years prior, so I recognized quite a bit! We also went inside the Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari, ate gelato, and shopped around a flea market we stumbled upon.

The Duomo Cathedral in Milan

We took an afternoon train back to Milan and arrived around 5:00. We were staying in a different place than the first night (a real hotel!), so we headed over to check in. When we got to the building, the receptionist told us that our room was actually at another location nearby, and showed us where to go on the map. We were all a little confused and were unsure of what was happening, but we took her directions and went to find our hotel; however, the receptionist had pointed us to the wrong street, so finding the hotel took a little longer than expected, but we eventually found it. That night we had “aperitivo” for dinner, which is where you just buy a drink at a restaurant, and then you have unlimited access to the buffet of appetizer food.

On Sunday morning we checked out of the hotel, and headed back towards the area of the Duomo. This time around, the area was so packed with tour groups that we could barely move. Since we had already been inside the church once before, we decided to head towards a park and castle area. There was a large flea market going on, and it was packed with people. Somehow our group got split up, and it took over half an hour trying to find each other again, which is hard to do when you don’t have data and cannot easily find wifi. I had tried to get tickets to see Leonardo Da Vinci’s The Last Supper, but unfortunately they were sold out and we were unable to go. Besides London, Milan was the place most similar to an American city I had been all semester long. I liked how the city was laid out, and the metro was easy to use, but other than that it did not feel extremely “Italian.” Also, I am a little surprised by the fact that Milan is a major location for fashion week! There were a lot of name brand stores (I have never seen so many H&Ms in my life), but the people were dressed normally, if not a little fancier than average. Overall, it was a great last weekend of travel, and while I do not need to go back to Milan again, I would go back to Venice anytime in a heartbeat.

On the Rialto Bridge in Venice

Viennese Waltz

Downtown Vienna

My trip to Austria, like my weekend in Krakow, was organized through my study abroad program and included a tour guide. Both of these trips have been nice because I have not had to worry about any planning. We got to Vienna in the afternoon, checked into the hostel, and had a little bit of downtime before going on a city tour. The first thing I noticed about Vienna was how large and regal all of the buildings are! There is such great architecture in Vienna; while Prague also has a fantastic array of architecture, I liked how spread apart the buildings in Vienna were so you could really appreciate each building for its size.

Wiener Christkindlmarkt at Rathausplatz

This weekend was the coldest weekend I have experienced in Europe so far, and was made all the worse because there was always a light mist in the air. The entire downtown area of Vienna was so pretty because Christmas lights were strung up between the buildings in the main pedestrian area. After the walking tour we went for snacks at Café Central, and then headed to Wiener Christkindlmarkt at Rathausplatz, the main Christmas market. Overall, the food at the Christmas markets was so delicious. The food consisted of kartoffelpuffer, a garlic hash brown; käsekrainer, a sausage filled with cheese; and a great jelly donut, all washed done with some "punsch." At the Weihnachtsdorf Maria Theresien-Platz market we split some erdäpfelschmarrn, a mashed potato volcano, complete with with chili on top (not what you would think as typically “Christmas” food, but quite possibly the best thing I had all weekend long). The atmosphere at all these Christmas markets was very similar, but each had its own unique vibe. The Vienna markets are usually ranked in the top 10 Christmas markets around the world, and I definitely understand why!

Upper Belvedere; photo credit Nikki Johl

On Saturday we had the second half of our bus tour around the city. We stopped at the Hundertwasser Village, which had a bunch of funky little buildings and architecture, built from the concepts of Austrian artist Friedensreich Hundertwasser. After this we went to the Belvedere, which is a famous art museum housed inside a gorgeous building. The Belvedere has many famous works of art, but the most famous being Gustav Klimt's The Kiss. My personal favorite collection in the museum was the Character Heads statues sculpted by Franz Xaver Messerschmidt. Overall, the Belvedere is one of the best art museums I have ever been in because it had a great assortment of art and just the building alone was so beautiful.

We had the Annatorte at Demel Bakery

Later on in the afternoon we wandered around the Naschmarkt, which is a combination food and flea market. Even though it was a little rainy, all the vendors were out selling their goods. After the market we decided to head to Sacher Hotel to try the famous Sachertorte, which is a traditional Austrian chocolate cake. However, when we got there, the line to enter was long, and since it was so cold, we decided instead to go to Demel Bakery. We got a table in the bakery, ordered café mélange (Austrian drink very similar to cappuccino), and split some cakes between four of us. We got a mini-Sacher cake, a chocolate-chocolate mousse cake, and a layered walnut cake.

Sunday morning we toured the Schönbrunn Palace. We had some downtime to walk around the grounds before doing the official tour inside. The gardens were absolutely huge! There was also a Christmas market right in front of the palace. Finally it was time for the tour. The palace is enormous; there are over a thousand rooms, and it is commonly referred to as little Versailles. The Palace was decorated in a Rococo style, which is a lavish and rather dainty style of architecture and decoration. My favorite room we walked through on the tour was in the enormous ballroom. Vienna is the most regal city I have visited, and I hope to someday have the chance to go back and visit when the weather is warmer so I can appreciate all the gardens.

Hundertwasser Village; photo credit Alexa Berry

 

Culture Clash

John Lennon Wall (which recently got completely painted over)

By now, I have been abroad in Europe for three months, and have experienced a few different stages of "culture clash." Culture clash goes deeper than just people speaking a different language and having different national foods than you; it also includes dealing with a whole population who may act completely different from you, making you feel at odds. During our orientation programs, our teachers told us that we would experience highs and lows throughout the entire semester abroad. Throughout the first six weeks in the Czech Republic, I did not experience much culture clash; instead, I found myself missing friends and family (and pets!) from home. Eventually, as I started to become more comfortable in Prague, the culture clash really started to hit me. During the following month, I started being bothered by things that never bugged me before. While one of the first things I noticed was the Czech people never make eye contact, I thought that would pertain only to strangers on the street. But no, that happens EVERYWHERE, even in stores and restaurants they will just stare at you. Within the past few weeks I have once again started to go into a "high" and not be as bothered by these things, but overall I think that for me, personally, the hardest part about living here is the language barrier. Even though so many people do speak English, there are still multiple moments everyday where I have to simply point at things or attempt to use my very basic grasp of the Czech language.

"Perunova" is my tram stop; the chart is the tram timetable

I also am not used to always taking the public transport. While the trams and metros run frequently, it does take a long time to get anywhere. It takes me half an hour to get to school, and anytime I take the tram to go somewhere, the journey (and wait time) usually takes at least 20 minutes. The absolute worst part about the trams is that sometimes they are so crowded you have to squeeze in; yes, I have been squashed against the door before. I do have quite a handle on the tram and metro system now, but I have to say that Google Maps is the greatest app ever invented. All you have to do is type in the place you want to go and the app will tell you how to get there using the public transport! This is fantastic because you can load up the app while you still have wifi access, and the app will track your progress even without internet!

Cappuccino from La Bohème Café

Another oddity about the Czech Republic is that they do not use credit cards. Almost everywhere is a cash-only establishment. I was not expecting this when I came abroad, and find it a little surprising, especially since Europe is far more advanced with their credit card technology than the US. When I do use my card, I have to sign a receipt for every purchase, even if I am only buying a $2 coffee. I have to admit that I do get Starbucks sometimes, mostly because it is the coffee shop nearest the metro station, and I know for certain they have regular, drip coffee! While Starbucks is popular here, the English chain Costa Coffee is more prevalent (and I think I like it more). But don’t worry, I have not only been drinking chainstore coffee; I have been exploring around my area and have found quite a few nice cafés in my neighborhood, such as my personal favorite, La Bohème Café.

Successful Prague Thanksgiving

Grocery shopping usually is not too hard, partially because I always buy the same things. It did take me two months to find where they keep the salad dressing. Occasionally, I will go to the fancy Marks & Spencer, which is a British brand and somewhat similar to a Trader Joe’s. The food is more expensive there, but all of the labels are in English so I know exactly what I am buying! One of the weirdest culture differences so far is that there obviously no Thanksgiving here in the Czech Republic (added onto the fact they do not really celebrate Halloween). I basically had no fall holidays! However, I did have a Thanksgiving celebration in one of my friends’ apartments. We all pitched in for a turkey, and then everyone else brought over side dishes. One of the Czech buddies even made pumpkin pie out of a real pumpkin she picked up from the farmers’ market! I brought cranberry sauce and made a green bean casserole; however, I had to used a “funyun” substitute for the fried onion topping (both items I looked through many stores and finally found at my new favorite store, Marks & Spencer). While it was definitely not a traditional Thanksgiving, it was still a fun dinner party. As we went around the table saying what we were thankful for, my contribution was that I am thankful I am lucky enough to spend an entire semester living, studying, and traveling in another country.